In the midst of a must-have-meat kind of day? Head straight to friendly Ohana, where sparse but sunny surroundings make room for a bounty of generously portioned broiled and barbied dishes. The slow-roasted kalua pig ($8) is lip-smackingly succulent. Beef, chicken and fish are likewise seasoned, salt-rubbed or slathered for tender and tasty results. Sides include Hawaiian macaroni salad, lomi lomi salmon, poi, and Spam musubi ($1.50-$2.50). Keiki plates for little 'opus ($4-$4.50) come with rainbow-hued shaved ice. (LA)