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October 18th, 2006 Audrey Van Buskirk | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2006

     
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Pazzo's decor is strictly old-school, especially for a boutique hotel: dark wood, plush booths and warm yellow lighting. The waiters are old-school, too—mature, professional and eager to please. Although his work tends to steer clear of cutting-edge technology, Chef John Eisenhart serves some really nice food—classic Italian dishes like spaghettini puttanesca, modernized with tender calamari and kickin' jalapeños, and the simplest pan-roasted halibut steak, which is cooked to perfection (but could use a little more salt). Among the starters you'll find a gussied-up version of another popular Italian restaurant favorite, prosciutto with grilled ciabatta and pickled melon. The wine list accommodates both academics and novices with small(ish) wallets. And the bartenders have been known to recommend a good port with the supple tiramisu. (AV)
 
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