There are very few questions necessary at the food-cart-spawned Whiskey Soda Lounge beyond, "Are you out of the…?" If you want to snap up the large-enough-to-be-scary grilled giant freshwater prawns, be an early bird (the wait usually pushes an hour shortly after dinner service begins), wear your walking shoes and remember that you won't be seated unless your whole party is present. The food is somewhere between tapas and full plate in terms of portion, so order at least two dishes per person. The spice-rubbed, thinly sliced boar collar, doused in a sour-spicy sauce and served with chilled mustard greens, should top the list. The addictive fish sauce wings should, too. Beyond that, choose from loads of outstanding and unusual curries, noodle bowls and skewers, or go for the always special specials. The full bar slings interesting house cocktails, including a bloody Mary with enough freshly ground spice to make you breathe fire.

IDEAL MEAL: Grilled freshwater prawns (minimum order of three), green papaya salad, fish sauce wings, boar collar, cold beer.