The menu's as varied as the decor, with Indian and Thai dishes alongside American fare, presenting clever (and even healthy) takes on comfort food from all over the globe. The fish and chips ($9.95) are easily the best in Portland�the fries, perfectly floppy and only a tad greasy, are made the way a fry should be: from an actual potato and served hot as hell. Rosemary mac and cheese ($7.50) is good as well, though the restaurant's ethnic dishes are a mixed bag. Desserts, like Toffee Coffee Fantasy, $4.50, are housemade and sharable. (MM)