With tall ceilings, clean lines and warm, coffee-colored walls, Sub Rosa is a straightforward, friendly and appealing neighborhood restaurant that doesn't try to be something it's not. Serving simple Italian food in realistic portions with fresh ingredients, a surprisingly varied menu emerges from Sub Rosa's tiny and efficient kitchen. The Caesar salad ($4-$7) is garlicky and flavorful but not heavy or mayonnaisy. The fettuccine Alfredo ($9) delivers a creamy, rich punch without dairy overload, but the pizza ($10-16), much lauded, can be dry and tough. (MK)