Owner Chris Kang's mission is admirable: spice up staid sushi by offering Japanese "fusion" This plays out in "new style" sushi dishes made with the fish of your choice—tuna, salmon, albacore, yellowtail or octopus—served as a roll and covered in jalapeño slices and sesame seeds, all resting in a tangy, soy-based sauce. The lobster roll is less triumphant beneath a cream sauce of mushrooms, onions and broccoli—some flavors and textures just aren't meant to fuse. Portion size at Sushi Mania is a foreign concept—the neta (pieces of raw fish) of the Salmon Killer roll are so large they must be artfully untangled from the logjam of lips, teeth and tongue. And give it up to Kang for offering one of Japan's best microbrews, Hitachino Nest White Ale. (Originally reviewed 9/15/04.)