"Hey, Mom, would it be all right with you if I took those neon signs from the basement and put them in the extra room upstairs? It would be nice, chill lighting for a place to hang out in armchairs and eat pizza with my friends, or just chow down on some barbecue and drink beer! Please, Mom, can I?" "Well, OK, sweetie, but I don't want you kids smoking up there." And so began the Sellwood Public House—at least, that seems like a perfectly plausible naissance when you're sitting in one of those armchairs, digesting the giant pizza you just shared with some buddies or chowing on something from the relatively new barbecue menu, drinking a beer, listening to live blues from the back room, and basking in the neon glow of beer and hockey-team signs. A 16-inch pepperoni is $17 and earns its "New York-style" name, and "gourmet" choices with white sauce, capers, Genoa salami or artichoke hearts run another buck or two. Just to make you feel more at home, it's smoke-free and family-friendly, often with a handful of little nippers running around. (MS)