This Montavilla destination is almost always crowded with families reaching over each other's plates of succulent shawarma ($9.95) as they tear off bits of piping-fresh pita to drag through hummus and puckery baba ghanouj. Try both in the veggie mezza ($8.95), which also comes with just-right falafel, grape leaves, tabbouleh and aranabeet (fried cauliflower, which may be an acquired taste�its inclusion feels a bit like your mom tried to sneak some Brussels sprouts on your plate without your noticing). The best part? After you fall in love with your Lebanese labne appetizer (absolutely addictive yogurt cheese served here with olives and fresh mint, $3.75) or Armenian beer, you can load up a basket at the attached International Food Supply market and take some home with you. (MS)