Remember when you were a kid, and your parents asked where you wanted to eat for your birthday, and you said Benihana because it was so cool to see the chef whip the knives and flip the food? Today's tykes and a good number of tourists evidently get the same thrill at Brazil Grill, where the fare is churrasco, or traditional Brazilian barbecue. And if the room is more corporate commissary than São Paolo, so much the better to showcase the friendly young "gauchos" wielding swords of bacon-wrapped filet, lamb with white wine and mint, and itty-bitty chicken hearts—all nicely salty, lightly smoky and so rich you'll want to consume more than your pound of flesh for the $28.95 set price. You probably won't be able to, and they don't give doggie bags, so graze lightly at the salad bar, skip the tasteless complimentary polenta fries, and stick with what's on the skewers: linguiça sausage, fist-size prawns and that glistening grilled pineapple.