The opening of a fourth Japanese joint within a 1-mile radius of Lloyd Center seemed like a crazy idea, but a couple of bites of the supple seared albacore at Meiji-En will change your mind. The menu centers on two pages of sushi options. The nigiri is top-notch, consistently doling out exceptional yellowtail, rich salmon and delicate fluke in generous portions. The long list of creative rolls follows, and the "Meiji"�a tempura shrimp roll crowned with spicy diced tuna and flying-fish roe�keep things fresh. The menu also includes classic Japanese appetizers�avoid the salad rolls, with their iceberg lettuce and ketchup-red dipping sauce. The kitchen does better with the traditional nibbles, like green-lip mussels broiled with spicy mayo and a soothing miso soup that has just enough smoky bonito-flake flavor to remind you what you're really here for: the fish. Meiji-En has minimalist elegance despite a silent flat-screen TV tuned to Japanese programs and the grating pan-Asian Muzak station. (IM)