A lighter, more authentic North Indian cuisine than that on offer at typical Indian restaurants, Indish's dishes forgo the usual curries and naan in favor of a variety of smallish plates, some of which actually require a knife. The peanut salad appetizer, basically just peanuts with pico de gallo, is more than the sum of its parts. Breaded eggplant with tomato sauce is unexpected and pleasingly meaty. While thin chapatis are less satisfying than pillowy naan, they leave room for a lush mango-coconut cheesecake or chai-rum latte at meal's end. Nearly a year after opening in October 2008, there are still some new-restaurant kinks to iron out, but the staff's earnestness and generosity make up for the occasional bungle. Bonus: Comfy couches at many of the tables are particularly welcome after a long day.

Order this: Fragrant lamb tikki makhani.
Best value: Peanut salad is under $4, and good with a creamy London porter. Just sayin'.
I'll pass: The chapatis are merely OK. Opt instead for flavorful Bombay potatoes.