February 21st, 2006 Elizabeth Dye | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Dish Review

     
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Slow Bar's owners declared they set out to create a "bartender's bar," and considering the crowds of post-shift barbacks and busboys wolfing down burgers after midnight, you could say they've created a hit. At $8.50, the hallmark Slowburger—half a pound of Painted Hills ground beef is piled with pancetta, melted gruyere and fried onion rings—is a bargain. Paired with sweet-potato fries and washed down with a pint (you just know Pabst is on tap here, and you're better off not challenging the staff with a tricky cocktail request), you'll be swallowing enough calories to get you through your next double shift. The vibe can feel a little insiderish, but if you're here for the food, ask loudly/politely for one of the brief, bar-food focused menus and slide into one of the enormous clamshell booths. The grub may be fresh, but it's not too fancy. (Originally reviewed 1/12/05.)

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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