Gloria's exuberance for traditional El Salvadoran pupusas ($10.50) and tamales ($10.50) becomes apparent the second your plate hits the table. Chow down on everything from fresh paella ($10.50-$11.95) to mole ($10.50) while the El Salvadoran cook educates you about the meal. Filled with chicken, capers and spices and wrapped in banana leaves, Gloria's handmade tamales ($10.50) melt in your mouth as the silky-soft cornmeal crumbles delicately on your palate. A cool, crunchy salad, a heaping pile of black beans and pillowy yellow rice accompany each entree. (WH)