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July 21st, 2010 CHRIS STAMM | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2009

     
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Welcome to heaven, where mashed potatoes are butter-yellow, salads are just an excuse for creamy dressings and, praise the Lord, egg creams and chocolate malteds never went out of style. Yes, crossing Blueplate’s threshold is a bit like stepping into the Twilight Zone, where life seems too good to be true until fate sideswipes your luck, but the only cruel twist here is a labored waddle back to work. This lunch spot’s much-ballyhooed Northwest sliders are perfect little hand grenades of juicy beef and Tillamook cheddar smeared with basil mayo and dished up with a side of those possibly illegal potatoes (if they aren’t a Schedule I controlled substance, they should be). A rotating specials menu features a different sandwich every day. Friday’s affair, exalted by the same basil concoction that puts the sliders over the top, comprises skillfully stratified bites of thick Texas toast, lettuce, tomato, and generous yet manageable slices of moist meatloaf. You’re half-assing it if you don’t indulge in one of the fountain classics or three-scoop shakes. Remember, this is a place beyond reason, where a butterscotch milkshake topped with nuts and granola (they call it the “R.P. McMurphy”) makes divine sense.
Order this: The Northwest sliders—Blueplate’s specialty and possibly the best thing available for lunch downtown.
Best deal: Friday’s special, the meatloaf sandwich, obviates the need for dinner, and possibly breakfast the next morning.
I’ll pass: The meat in the roast beef dip is just fine, but the accompanying jus is overwhelmingly salty.

 
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