November 30th, 1999 12:00 am Ethan Smith | Food Reviews & Stories

Drink 2009


When Portland bars went smoke-free on Jan. 1, 2009, we worried it would spell the end of Southeast Portland’s venerable Brit pub, the Horse Brass. Not because the 33-year-old bar—incubator of Portland’s craft-brewing explosion—wouldn’t retain its loyal patrons, but because we assumed its billowing, milkshake-thick clouds of cigarette smoke were load-bearing, structural elements of the building, without which the sprawling pub would collapse. Thankfully, the Horse Brass and its epic tap list still stand. Even in beer-obsessed Portland, the bar’s brew roster is impressive: 50-plus constantly rotating drafts, including Rogue’s Younger’s Special Bitter, commissioned by HB owner and publican supreme Don Younger in honor of his brother William. This is a great place to experiment with a pint of something new. Just pluck a dart from one of the pub’s boards, launch it at the tap list and don’t ask questions.
What to drink: A pint of something hoppy you’ve never heard of before.
Happy hour: None.
Entertainment: Darts, TV.

  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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