The sweet Dolly Parton plaque and Don Knotts in memoriam salad might suggest that winking irony is the main course here, but whoever chose the grapefruit and grilled fennel to honor the late Barney Fife player was clearly motivated by love, not cultural cachet. Same goes for the Lestat sandwich (Black Forest ham, chevre and blood-orange marmalade) and the puckery Col. Mustard (sammies range from $4.75 to $6.75, while basic breakfast sandwiches start at $3.25). With the cuter-than-cute decorated cookies, adorable Asian travel toys, dollar buttons for sale, and pigtailed pixies as customers, the only drawback is the sneaking suspicion that you're not cute enough to be here. Darlin', you're cute enough. Stop worrying, and have another piece of seriously good pie ($3). (MS)