April 21st, 2010 KELLY CLARKE | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Devour 2010

     
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[JAPANESE] This sturdy Japanese market has been open in one location or another in Portland since 1905 (aside from the family’s “free government vacation,” as third-generation owner Hiroshi Matsushima terms the store’s 1941-1946 hiatus). These days, a happy jumble of Asian groceries and cookware sprouts from every available surface, even the ceiling: fresh and frozen sushi staples; hot, steamed hum bao rolls and squid salad by the pound; more types of nori than found in the Pacific Ocean; and a whole fridge case devoted to sticky fermented soybeans called natto (shudder). Skip the store’s emaciated veggie bin and stock up on pickled plums and dehydrated fruit snacks instead. Plus, lovely tea and sake sets, robes and paper umbrellas.

Grocery list: Locally made Jorinji miso, fresh sushi, soba noodles, mochi and fukujinzuke.

 
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