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March 11th, 2009 12:00 am AARON MESH | Food Reviews & Stories

Cheap Eats 2009


The Bob’s Red Mill cornmeal crust on Dove Vivi’s 12-inch deep-dish pizzas ($3.75 a slice, $10.50 half, $20 whole) isn’t just a novel variation; it’s the platform for an entirely new reading of the concept—like realizing that King Lear was actually a comedy this whole time. Here, the discovery is that “pizza pie” can be executed with the emphasis on “pie”: Half the menu options dispense with sauce of any kind, instead using a bed of melted mozzarella to nestle such thrilling combinations as fresh sweet corn, chives and balsamic-marinated roasted red onions.

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