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October 15th, 2008 CARIN MOONIN | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2008

     
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Can’t make it to Sweden? Or even Northeast Airport Way? Though sometimes it seems a flight to Europe might be quicker than a meal at this adorable Clinton Street cafe, those who seek their non-IKEA Scandinavian fix or just want one of the cutest breakfasts in Portland line up here on weekend mornings. A weekday lunch gives a bit more elbow room, and mellower dinners are back as of the beginning of September. With service that adeptly straddles the fine line between hipster and friendly, Broder’s meals are carefully prepared and gorgeous to look at: Your order will appear on a wooden board, with the plate nestled into a carved hollow. Baked eggs arrive in their own iron mini-skillet, with a fabric cozy over the handle. A gravlax bord with house-smoked salmon, pickled vegetables and a dynamite horseradish cream is almost too pretty to eat. But that careful preparation takes time, and lots of it: Consider packing a PowerBar to tide you over if you’re ravenous when you write your name on the wait list.

IDEAL MEAL: Swedish breakfast bord, baked scramble with wild mushroom and caramelized onion, Swedish meatballs.

 
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