IKEA wasn’t the only Swedish restaurant to drop its balls of meat on PDX recently. Three weeks before the Swedish retailer jammed up local traffic patterns, Savoy’s Peter Bro opened his Swedish-themed Broder in the space formerly home to Henry’s Cafe on Southeast Clinton Street. Blue plastic chairs and rough cedar siding lend Broder a vaguely Scandinavian aesthetic, a look that Bro likens to the inside of a Swedish sauna. The menu could be summed up as “edible cute”: The excellent smoked-trout and onion scramble is oven-baked and served on a square mini-skillet that looks to have been swiped from a child’s kitchen playset—complete with a dinky quilted oven mitt that fits snugly over the little metal handle. The Broder Club ($8) rules lunchtime with gravlax, bacon, avocado, roasted tomato and horseradish cream on Pearl Bakery bread. It nearly feeds two. (MT)
Signature dish: The meatballs, made fresh daily and bathed in a creamy sherry sauce, kick IKEA’s to the curb.
Standouts: Aebleskiver —pillowy, apricot-sized Danish pancakes with the trio of housemade lingonberry jam, maple syrup and what the menu rightly dubs “good butter.”
Regrets: Nary a “bork” to be heard.