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July 21st, 2010 BRIAN PANGANIBAN | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2009

     
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A lot of subtlety has been lost from sushi as a cuisine during its transition into the mainstream. If prepackaged grocery-store California rolls or salt-and-sugar bombs at the local sushi-go-’round have blunted your appreciation for raw fish, a trip to Hiroshi is just the tonic you need. While the menu will certainly be more spendy (nigiri orders are for individual pieces rather than the pairs found in other shops), each deftly assembled item will be of the utmost freshness and quality. Any garnish or embellishment is designed to complement the flavor of the fish rather than drown it out. Wild Tasmanian salmon aburi, seared and touched with ponzu sauce, dissolves on the tongue while the aji (horsetail mackerel) is proof positive that when handled properly, something that tastes fishy can still be considered sublime. The best seats in the house are at the brightly lit bar, where you can watch Hiroshi himself or one of his assistants rekindle your love affair with sushi.
Order this: Toro aburi, with one caveat: It’s really hard to stop ordering it.
Best deal: Seared tuna with chile miso ($8).
I’ll pass: It tastes delicious, but the watery-custard consistency of the chawanmushi may not be for everyone.

 
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