God is in the grits and heaven in the hog at the Country Cat. Although the focus is on classic American Southern fare, the twists (molasses-hickory-smoked duck legs, an old fashioned floated with sweetened iced tea in a tall glass) are enough to make you twang in tongues. Chef-owner Adam Sappington's signature dishes include cast-iron fried chicken; Strawberry Mountain barbecue beef; and smoked pork shoulder, rolled belly and brined chop—the "Whole Hog." The whiskey and bourbon shelf is long, and the bar menu chalked on the wall beside it should not be missed. Highlights include buttery, hot pretzels sprinkled with salt and served with whole-grain mustard, and the pulled-pork sandwich with a tall stack of shoestring fries. Your tattooed server will happily serve bar bites along with a full meal with a wink and a nod.

IDEAL MEAL: Butter-lettuce wedge with Green Goddess dressing and poached egg, Cattail Creek Farm lamb chop and lamb meatball with goat cheese dumplings, peach pie with honey-lavender ice cream.