This grande dame of Portland cuisine has been wowing critics from around the country since long before our city was the darling of the national food press. And despite the surging thicket of new and ambitious Portland restaurants, the Heathman's French-cum-Northwest flavors remain elite. A salad of Oregon bay shrimp, baby leeks and fennel bulb expertly balances crisp with hearty. The Caprese salad presentation is a touch sloppy, but its heirloom tomatoes are sweet and earthy and its mozzarella fresh. The Heathman clearly saves its A-game for entrees. The dainty roasted quail in a nest of crème fraîche polenta, roasted figs and verdant, candy-sweet sugar snap peas is superb. The star of the menu is a single buttery diver scallop, seared brown on the top and bottom and dressed with pine-nut vinaigrette.

IDEAL MEAL: Bay shrimp salad, roasted quail, profiteroles.