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October 20th, 2010 CHRIS STAMM | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Beast: Restaurant Guide 2010

     
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Dinner at 6 and 8:45 pm Wednesday-Saturday, brunch at 10 am and noon Sunday. Reservations required. $$$$ Very expensive.
[CARNIVORE CARNIVAL] The name might have been conceived as a bold declaration of carnivorous principles, but it’s morphed into a denotation of monstrous hype that just won’t die. The clamorous conversation about Beast seems to have intensified this year: Newsweek, Iron Chef America, O magazine and pissed-off animal-rights activists (they’re not huge fans of foie gras) have all stuck their snouts into chef Naomi Pomeroy’s tiny dining room to scope the fuss. And since one of Pomeroy’s six-course meals will set you back 60 bucks ($95 with wine pairings), there are still plenty of Portlanders saving up for an evening here and adding their chatty anticipation to the eager noise surrounding the place. Keep saving, folks, because Beast continues to meet the ridiculously high expectations. A recent midsummer menu featured a fresh soup of chilled crab and vegetables; an intense and artfully arranged charcuterie plate, the highlight of which was a magical little square of toast topped with quail egg and steak tartare; and a porchetta roast paired with perfect plum chutney and a slick of balsamic vinegar. The greens and cheese and graham tart that followed were just as impressive, and each wine pairing was spot-on. Just go already. CHRIS STAMM.
Ideal meal: Whatever’s on the menu.
Best deal: Not applicable. Start saving. (Sunday brunch is $24 for four courses.)

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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