April 21st, 2010 12:00 am Ben Bateman | Food Reviews & Stories

Devour 2010


[GLUTEN-FREE] New Cascadia has moved across the river from its old Northwest 21st Avenue location, but it’s still offering the same gluten-free fare. While the wide variety of gluten-free breads doubtlessly delights celiacs, gluten processors will find it is no alternative to standard bread. The loaves are more expensive than the average loaf, and significantly thicker, lacking the rise and chew of gluten-rich bread. The sticky buns benefit from this characteristic thickness, and the bakery’s flaky desserts are delicious, easily equal to their glutened companions. For celiacs and the gluten-abstaining, New Cascadia offers goods that are difficult or impossible to find elsewhere, but those craving a top-notch loaf regardless of contents might be better served at one of Portland’s innumerable glutenful artisan bakeries.

Grocery list: Pizza ($6.50-$7.50), sweet galette ($4), sticky bun ($2.50), everything bagel ($2).

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