The surreal Streets of Tanasbourne may be a bit of a trek from Portland, but the dosas at Chennai Masala are worth it. The long, crispy crepes, carted out by the friendly staff at this no-frills South Indian eatery, are stuffed with numerous fillings, many based on a tasty onion-potato curry and served with a trio of sauces that can both cool and burn with equal facility. Crisp, airy samosas are a great way to begin, and the traditional Indian dishes shine: A lamb saag comprising fork-tender chunks of lamb swimming in a vibrant emerald spinach sauce begs to be sopped up with warm and stretchy garlic naan. Chana masala, a tomato-based spiced garbanzo stew over a mound of basmati, is superb, the beans cooked through without a hint of mushiness. Cool your throat with a tangy mango lassi and try to convince yourself that you really don't need to order just one more dosa for the table.

IDEAL MEAL: Spinach masala dosa, samosas, chicken tikka masala.