Why did chef Jen Lewis, who runs the fine catering company Culinary Artistry, and her husband, David Walsh, one of the city's top-notch waiters and a producer for public radio, decide to venture into the risky and brutal world of owning a restaurant? Beats me, but their new venture, Lincoln, which opened in July on North Williams Avenue, is a great-looking corner space in a newly renovated building, with a lofty ceiling, wooden beams and walls of windows. A single meal about a month after opening revealed food that was pleasant but almost aggressively uncomplicated, like thyme flatbread with smooth brandade and a tangle of grilled green onions and potato and sage fritters, crisp and creamy. Simple roast chicken came with shoestring potatoes, an item which in the history of the restaurant universe has never been delivered hot. This time was no exception. A savvy little wine list and capable service will make it agreeable to sit back and see what this restaurant evolves into.

IDEAL MEAL: Bruschetta topped with a pleasantly sharp salad of squid, green olives and capers; hanger steak with fine onion rings; hot fudge sundae.