Lincoln: Restaurant Guide 2010

5:30 pm-close Tuesday-Saturday. $$ Moderate.
Though it’s undeniable that the food at Jenn Louis and David Welch’s bare-beamed Northwest-comfort-food enclave is top notch, it’s the restaurant’s simple presentation that puts it over the top. The menu is constantly changing, but you can always count on the meat dishes (the hanger steak with delicate blue-cheese butter and perfect onion rings is a can’t miss) and the selection of local fish, which vary from a slice of albacore tuna to salmon served skin-side up on a plate fava beans, to be both eye-catching and delicious. Even the starters, which sound uncomplicated, are elevated with interesting touches like quail eggs or the tiger melon served with the you’ll-eat-every-bite thyme flatbread. Louis’ handmade pastas are always excellent as well. MICHAEL MANNHEIMER.
Ideal meal: The hanger steak or roasted half chicken with an order of onion rings.
Best deal: An order of cornmeal onion rings ($6) will make your whole meal.
Chef’s choice: “My favorite is our baked hen eggs with cream, castelvetrano olives and herbed bread crumbs.” (Jenn Louis)