To the right kind of eyes, no more enticing pair of words can be printed on a menu than "beef heart." There's a savage appeal to ingesting a bloody symbol of another animal's vitality, which by its very name seems so much closer to the lusty, violent truth of carnivorousness than most of the disembodied cuts we encounter. Plus, it tastes like really good steak. At Del Inti, the heart comes sliced, skewered and seasoned with a chile-heavy rub. Grilled rare and dressed with citrusy salsa criolla, this dish is reason enough to book a ticket to Lima. Del Inti's aims are more modest than Andina's, its preparations and presentations simpler, but the flavors remain bold and vibrant. Scallops, seared to a buttery rare and drizzled with balsamic reduction, surround a hearty lentil "tacu tacu" patty piled with wilted spinach. The petite hanger steak looks less impressive than it tastes, laid next to a pile of what appear to be home fries, but are in fact perrullade papas—creamy mashed potatoes patted into cubes and fried crisp.
Order this: If you haven't already noticed, we really like beef heart.
Best deal: Rotating ceviches ($10-$11).
I'll pass: Side dishes of fingerling potatoes and mushroom crostini seem like filler, bland and disappointing.