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October 20th, 2010 KELLY CLARKE | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Del Inti: Restaurant Guide 2010

     
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4-10 pm Wednesday-Sunday. $$ Moderate.
[PERUVIAN] Ignacio and Erin del Solar’s Northeast Alberta Street Peruvian restaurant—a vibrant mashup of South American, Asian and Northwestern flavors—is like sunshine on a plate. And with a Lima-born boy in the kitchen, you better believe the ceviche is something to shout about: big firm hunks of octopus, yam and shrimp luxuriate in a puckery “leche de tigre” marinating liquid of citrus, red onion and chile; another take adds pickled carrots, mango and sesame. The entrees, a lineup of stuffed peppers, steaks and chops, are hearty and satisfying, but a mix-and-match meal of smaller plates is far more fun. Nibble on crisp yuca sticks with spicy cheese sauce or sweet asparagus- and potato-packed empanadas and gobble stewed pork belly with Manila clams. And when the menu presents you the chance to brave beef heart, take it. Del Inti serves its organs charcoal-grilled on skewers, creating meaty, tender nibblets made perfect by a dunk in creamy, green chile-cheese-peanut ocopa sauce. KELLY CLARKE.
Ideal meal: Multiple ceviches, beef heart skewers, strawberry arugula salad with tamarind vinaigrette, clams and a big pitcher of fruity white sangria.
Best deal: Take a dollar off the bar menu at happy hour (4-7 pm), which means you can gorge on the best avocado sauce in town, served with fried won tons filled with queso fresco as a delivery system. Get the lomo saltado sandwich too.
Chef’s choice: Ceviche. “The fresh fish (if you serve frozen or not really fresh fish in Peru you go out of business), aji, lime, red onion, cilantro, ginger, celery, corn and sweet potato together make me happy!” (Ignacio del Solar)

 
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