The plain quesadilla ($4) at La Calaca Comelona is representative of the restaurant's entire output: Simple, perfectly executed traditional Mexican. The housemade tortilla, fat with Mexican cheese, may be too salty or too greasy elsewhere, but here it sings. Pair it with the meaty, beany tortas ($7) or tacos ($2.50) and ridiculously generous sides of beans and rice ($2 each) and prepare for the ensuing food coma.