April 21st, 2010 KELLY CLARKE | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Devour 2010

     
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[OLD-SCHOOL MEAT] Anxiety (and euphoria) strikes as you survey the football-field-long meat counter and the buzzing hive of attendants and choppers behind it—do you order the porterhouse steak? Or the Polish sausages? Beef ribs? Portland’s best butcher shop cures wishy-washiness. There are no bad choices here: top-notch ground beef, world-class chops, marinated chicken, two kinds of house-smoked, nitrate-free bacon and the best pepperoni sticks (two for a buck) in the galaxy—mostly sourced from Northwest ranchers. Housed in the same outer Northeast Portland location for 50 years, and currently run in part by one of the original owner’s granddaughters, the space is utilitarian and often very busy on the weekends. It’s worth the wait—the old-school crew will cut roasts to order, patiently explain what head cheese is and slice their excellent house pastrami and other lunch meats to your liking. 


Grocery list: Pepperoni, pastrami, steaks and smoked cow femurs ($1.79 a pound) for the dog.

 
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