April 21st, 2010 12:00 am KELLY CLARKE | Food Reviews & Stories

Devour 2010


[PACIFIC ISLANDER] The 3-foot radius inside the door of Harold and Renu Nath’s box-cluttered island shop is all American minimart—smokes, Pepsi, Lemonheads and gummy treats. But explore any deeper and you’ll hit Africa, Jamaica, Tonga and Micronesia in turn, with aisles devoted to jerk seasonings and unfamiliar spices, tinned meats, lentils, fried peas and giant tins of cabin biscuits. A quartet of junky freezer cases hog much of the floor space, full of prehistoric-lookin’ frozen fish and halal lamb and goat.

Grocery list: Sweet Pony Malta soda, frozen Samoan beef bangers, bagged chura, spices and Colt 45.

  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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