April 21st, 2010 DENISE CASTAÑON | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Devour 2010

     
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[MEXICAN] A busy Saturday at Yesenia’s on Powell is a cheerful mishmash of noise, with laughing kids, a squealing conveyor belt that spits out hot tortillas and conversations in English and Spanish. And you’ll find everything for a Mexican feast in this neat little grocery: tomatillos and poblanos for chile verde; immense wedges of cotija cheese for chiles rellenos; and carne ranchera, thin flap steak perfect for grilling. And it’s all reasonably priced. For sweets, don’t pass up the pan dulce in the back cases. It’s not baked on the premises—or available early in the morning—but it’s delicious. Or raid the candy aisle for eye-wateringly hot mango-chile suckers or powdery peanut confections. Don’t feel like cooking? Go upstairs to the taqueria for tasty (and ridiculously cheap) tacos, tortas, burritos and creamy horchata.


Grocery list: Dried ancho, Nueva Mexico and California chiles, Mexican cheeses, crema fresca, epazote, chicharrónes and fresh corn tortillas.

 
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