Richard Day-Reynolds was born to barbecue. The Tennessee native bellies up to his carbon-black Traeger grill as though he entered the world with basting brush in hand, destined to slow-cook beef and pork into tender, juicy submission. It's everything barbecue should be: messy, sloppy and too good to eat politely. Diners should come ready to gorge themselves barbarically, or be sure to specify takeout ($1 extra). Of the seven meat entrees, the obvious standout is the beef brisket ($6). Day-Reynolds slaps the gargantuan cut of meat onto a 210-degree grill for 10 sweltering hours before he serves it up piping hot and tender enough to tease apart with the nudge of a fork. The divine pulled-pork sandwich ($6) is spicy with unexpected heat, and even an urban-born city kid can conjure up images of simple country life after a single bite of the deeply satisfying barbecued meatloaf ($6).