Wine snobbery got a little more accessible this spring when MetroVino opened across from Tanner Springs Park. The restaurant offers all of its 64 wines by the 1.5-ounce taste or 4.5-ounce glass, thanks to the high-tech Enomatic wine system, a giant behind-the-bar dispenser that keeps wine fresh for weeks by filling the bottles with argon gas after each pour. So if you really want to try that 2001 Barolo but don’t have a spare Ben Franklin, you can settle for a somewhat less steep $11 taste or $33 glass. Although MetroVino’s wine service is fantastic, it doesn’t eclipse the food. The asparagus starter is a handful of sweet and crunchy grilled spears in a brown-butter anchovy sauce topped with a tiny grilled anchovy along with the prize—a breaded and fried poached egg. If you’re after a flavorful big plate, the lamb T-bone with housemade lamb sausage delivers. Pour us another taster, winebot.
Order this: Grilled wild Alaskan halibut with bottarga-aioli bruschetta over clam broth with plump corona and scarlet runner beans and freshly shelled peas.
Best deal: A mere $10 markup on retail bottle price for wine consumed in-house (all in-house wine is also for sale to go).
I’ll pass: On the dining room. The bar is super comfortable with a nice view of the constantly flowing wine, and more relaxed, but with expert service nonetheless.