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July 21st, 2010 KELLY CLARKE | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Restaurant Guide 2009

     
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The British are coming, but at Micah Camden’s new English corner pub, just doors away from his other Killingsworth-area restaurants, Yakuza and DOC, the deep fryer is their weapon. So far the new pub, a charming navy-and-taupe chamber dominated by a wall of old telephones and a massive, gleaming wood bar stocked with every beer from Ninkasi to New Castle, is having its bright, decadent way with formerly leaden Brit standards. From Scotch woodcock—buttery soft-scrambled eggs decorated with cherry tomatoes and bright, oniony “gentleman’s relish” atop perfect toast—at brunch to huge, possibly heart attack-inducing portions of excellent, vodka-battered cod with truffle-scented fries or bangers and mash with Guinness gravy at dinner, it’s enough to make you start spelling savory with a “u.”


Order this: Sturdy English pancakes topped with sour cream and fresh berries; creamy, crunchy, so-wrong-it’s-right chicken liver and red onion sandwich, the best (fried, sausage-wrapped) Scotch eggs on either side of the Atlantic.
Best deal: Not a what, but a when: Fats’ gargantuan all-night happy-hour menu boasts Welsh rarebit sandwiches, bubble and squeak, sausage sarnies and shepherd’s pie, among other pint accoutrements, all for $5 or less.
I’ll pass: Those Scotch eggs; not because they don’t taste good, but because I want to live.

 
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