When a fork isn't even offered, authenticity's a good bet. The newly renovated Ocean City's outside appearance and location next to a skeezy Southeast 82nd Avenue hotel belie a high-quality Cantonese-style joint serving hot pots, buckets of soup and huge veggies. While dishes like the sizzling short ribs ($12) can underwhelm, treats like sautéed tender greens ($11.50) and a bounty of crustaceans, fish and other marine life are delightful. Toss in some of the best crab won tons ($6.99) in town and Ocean City proves a hidden treasure.