Named, until recently, Umma's (Korean for "Momma's"), Spring Restaurant remains a wide-open, brightly illumined secret on the upper deck of the Paldo Asian Market. The attraction here is the housemade, pinky-thick udon-style noodles—unmatched anywhere near Portland—but nothing disappoints. For $8 to $10 a person, you and a largely Korean-speaking crowd will be treated to seafood noodle soup ($9.95), eggy bowls of bibimbap ($8.95) or spiced beef bulgogi ($9.95), each accompanied by a dizzying array of tiny bowls of kimchi and other appetizers. By the time you're done, you'll be calling for Umma.