Inside the Cully shopping plaza that still proclaims itself home of the lost Burger Oasis, there is a checkerboard-tile building whose front doors are glazed with the image of a lynx. Inside, there is a red double-decker bus. Inside the bus, there is a kitchen that concocts heavenly slow-roasted pork called cochinita pibil. Try it with avocado spears on the fried masa dough of a huarache ($5) or in a thick torta ($4) with tomatoes and a sour cream. And be sure to bring cash—otherwise you’ll have to hit the ATM next door in the dubious strip club Sugar Shack, where cheeks jiggle to Hanson’s “Mmmbop” and the private dance room is hand-painted with neon murals of Tweety Bird.