413 NW 21st Ave., 241-7667, tanukipdx.com. 4 pm-close (always 10 pm or later) Tuesday-Saturday.
Janis Martin's endearingly odd bar has a lot in common with inexpensive restaurants all over Japan, in that it is tiny, cramped and not quite level with the sidewalk, pays little attention to decor, and serves food so strange and delicious it might make you cry. I get a little weepy just thinking about the kimchi fried rice, spiced duck hearts, spicy noodles and squid jerky. For a real adventure, give over control of your dinner to Martin; you name the price per person, and she'll bring out amazing stuff you would never have considered ordering on your own. BEN WATERHOUSE.
What to drink: Shot of sake and a beer.
Happy hour: $2 Sapporo, $4 Hite and sake, $1-$5 food specials 4-6 pm Tuesday-Saturday.
Entertainment: Creepy, sometimes obscene Japanese movies.