The brainchild of Bud Clark, Portland's most universally beloved mayor, continues into its fifth decade as a kind of principled experiment in the civic virtue of the bull session. Even the coasters are inscribed with a manifesto: "We are dedicated to extremes of opinion, hoping that a livable marriage will result. If physical violence is your nature, either develop your verbal ability or leave." Out, louts! The rest of us are invited to sit at the foot of the West Hills in a quaint wooden cottage with a big front porch, where we can debate TriMet policy to the sound of passing MAX trains. It's pretty paradisiacal, and only improved by the "Best Reuben on the Planet" ($9.25), a deliciously oozing pile of corned beef, sauerkraut and cheese. If you somehow haven't done so already, it's high time you exposed yourself to Clark. AARON MESH.
What to drink: A 20-ounce pint of Goose Hollow Golden, made specially for the Inn by Fort George Brewing in Astoria.
Happy hour: None.
Entertainment: Patio, TVs, books.