The Kentucky trappings of this whiskey-centric Nob Hill tavern—Frito pie on the menu, guns on the wall—go just far enough, all Southern hospitality without the NASCAR fixation. The four shelves behind the bar hold over 100 bourbons, whiskeys and whiskies, from Canadian Club ($5) to Hirsch Selection 28 Year ($70); make it through 50 of them and the bar will give you 10 percent off for life. It's a cozy place, taking up the front three rooms of an 1890 Victorian; cozier still is the eight-seat bar, topped with a magnificent sheet of rolled copper. There are cocktails, but you should be having yours straight. And try the ice cream. BEN WATERHOUSE.
What to drink: Elmer T. Lee, neat.
Happy hour: $5 cocktails, $4 wine and select whiskies, $3.50 well drinks, $3 draft beer and $4-$6 food specials 4-7 pm Tuesday-Friday and all night Sunday.
Entertainment: TV, pub quiz 8 pm Sundays. Patio.