Muhamed Mujcic-Mufko’s 4-4-2 is Portland’s lone soccer
bar, its walls adorned with the flags of favored teams, from FC Bayern
to the Timbers’ green and yellow; the bar’s stock clientele is mostly
drawn from the ranks of the American Soccer Fan, which is to say:
foreigners, hippies and ex-expatriates. Some of us, however, come in
simply for the hospitality and the bar food (as well as the draft beer
served in true half-liter mugs). Bosnian lepinja bread, made
in-house, is a singular version of the Mediterranean pita: half an inch
thick and fluffy as a baguette, with a sweet outer crispness that comes
from being baked in olive oil. The šiš (rich, spicy sausage patties, pronounced “sheesh”) and cevapi (beef-lamb patties akin to mini-hamburgers) are served in an array of options ranging from $8 to $12; each comes with lepinja bread, sweet-bitter yogurt sauce and ajvar,
a spicy pepper-eggplant relish. My favorite, however, is the peka
sandwich ($8.75), which sports wafer-sliced meat so smoked and cured as
to be beef’s own thundering answer to bacon. Dear Lord.
Copyright 2014 Willamette Week Newspaper & WWEEK.COM
