Cheap Eats 2011: Al Forno Ferruzza

This Alberta pizzeria hand-throws pies using what their menu calls a "secret Sicilian recipe." Having never been to Sicily, I can only take their word for it, but if the natives there are all about thin, crispy crust with a beautifully darkened cornicione (what we call "crust"), Ferruzza has it nailed. The pizza margherita ($7 for a 12-inch pie) balances a sweet, fresh San Marzano tomato sauce with just a smattering of mozzarella and fresh basil, resulting in a simple, unfussy, satisfying slice for the pizza purist. Ferruzza's calzones ($8.50), in contrast, are heady, rich affairs, stuffed with ricotta, mozzarella and a pair of ingredients of your choice. Right out of the oven, they are messy, gooey and painfully hot, but oh so worth the agony.

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