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March 7th, 2011 CHRIS STAMM | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2011: Angel Food and Fun

Angel Food and Fun would be yet another hit-or-miss neighborhood convenience if it didn’t do one thing so soul-stirringly well that I hesitate to publicize it for fear there will not be any left for me when I return. That thing is called cochinita pibil ($9.99), and I want to marry it. Angel’s take on the Yucatan’s most famous dish finds citrusy, sunburn-red broth swimming with slow-cooked cuts of tender pork that fall apart at the touch of a spoon; by the time half of the bowl is empty, you will be tucking into a gloriously unified mass of steaming flesh and grease that would not look out of place burbling up from the earth as a lava-slow current of perfect sustenance. You will not be disappointed—unless you hate life.

 
  • Currently 3.5/5 Stars.
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