At first glance just a well-heeled neighborhood grocery deep within one of the city's most exclusive residential areas, where median home prices top half a million, Eastmoreland Market has indeed long been viewed as a neighborhood asset. But the main attraction for outsiders is the Kitchen, with its lunchtime offerings of mammoth sandwiches, salads and other satisfying deli items. The meatball hero ($8) makes a prince of this blue-collar classic, with the mozzarella, meatballs and most other components housemade. The meaty muffuletta ($8) has its own following. The hoagie ($8.50), with pan-fried chicken, dressed greens, sun-dried tomatoes and goat cheese, is a marvelous combination of tangy and savory flavors. Worth the trip in themselves are the arancine ($1), the delicate and mischievous-feeling Sicilian fried risotto balls, which are among the best in town. If this place is the closest most of us will ever come to living in Eastmoreland, then so be it.