How paradoxical, that munching fresh, hot slices should be a form of
nostalgia, but Escape From New York serves as a kind of collective
Proustian madeleine for the shoppers of No-Longer-Trendy-Third. Since
1983, Phil Geffner has been pulling Big Apple pies out of the oven, with
the piquantly seasoned tomato sauce as thick as the Statues of Liberty
peppering the storefront. Two pepperoni slices ($3.25 each) are a
perfect 12-minute lunch, and a used copy of the Times always
seems to be lying near the counter. A neighborhood cornerstone that has
lost little of its attitude, Escape proudly carries out Geffner’s
principled fight against delivery, credit cards, wasted napkins and
ranch dressing.

