The meaty offspring of Andy Ricker (Pok Pok, Ping), Daniel Mondok (Sel Gris) and Kurt Huffman (developer of Whiskey Soda Lounge, Ping, Grüner and St. Jack) isn’t a “concept restaurant” or a cheeky riff on the American diner. It’s just a straight-up burger joint—thank God—with a ’90s Portland theme that shows up everywhere from the walls papered with Satyricon and La Luna posters to the Weezer and Pixies tunes on the stereo. All their messy-wonderful eats ($8-$11 or so) start with a foundation of soft housemade brioche buns, excellent housemade pickles ($2.50-$5, stock up with a jar from the fridge near the bar) and a side of crisp, skin-on fries. From there, get a bit spicy with the Burner burger ($10), packed with mellow roasted jalapeños, crunchy little onion straws and both American and cheddar cheese all drizzled with sriracha, or go Kiwi with pickled beets and a fried egg ($11). There are microbrews and booze on hand, but man, does Foster Burger make a great chocolate milkshake. If I lived in the neighborhood, my butt would never leave its wooden booths.