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March 7th, 2011 KELLY CLARKE | Food Reviews & Stories
 

Cheap Eats 2011: Frank's Noodle House

     
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For the past seven years, Frank Fong has been the Portland metro area’s king of noodles—chubby, springy, chewy wonders he creates from wheat flour, eggs, water and one pair of hands. He pulled his tasty wares at Beaverton’s Du Kuh Bee until 2010, when he parted ways with DKB’s co-owner and opened Frank’s in a converted house on Northeast Broadway. The locale may have changed, but the noodles have not. The fresh noodles are quick-boiled and then tossed into a hot wok with a variety of proteins—thick bits of pork belly or toothsome squid are my favorites—along with crisp bell peppers, cabbage, onions and a smoky Korean chile sauce ($7.95-$12.95 at dinner). Minutes later, they’re on your plate; seconds later, in your gullet. Portions are big enough to share, especially since orders come with crunchy pickled daikon, kimchi and soup. Go ahead and spring for a plate of housemade steamed dumplings ($4.25), too. Packed with juicy, sesame-perfumed ground pork and tons of chives, they’re so tender they make similar dishes around town taste like gummy hockey pucks.

 
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